How to Change Your Car's Oil

Changing your own oil is one of the more satisfying jobs a car owner can take on. It saves a bit of money, teaches you how your car goes together, and means you know exactly what went into the engine. It's also a job where safety and care genuinely matter, because you'll be working underneath the car and handling hot fluid.

This isn't a step-by-step for every model, but a plain overview of what the job involves, how to do it without getting hurt, and how to be honest with yourself about whether it's worth doing at home at all.

Decide whether to do it yourself#

Some cars make an oil change straightforward: the drain plug and filter are easy to reach, and you barely need to lift the car. Others hide the filter behind panels, tuck the plug under a plastic undertray, or sit so low that getting beneath them is a struggle. Look up your specific model before you commit.

Be realistic about your setup, too. You need level, solid ground, a safe way to raise the car, and somewhere to store and transport used oil. If you're missing any of those, a shop will do the job quickly and cheaply, and there's no shame in that.

Time is part of the calculation as well. A first oil change, done carefully, can eat up the better part of a morning once you add in jacking the car, waiting for it to drain fully, fitting the filter, and cleaning up afterward. It gets quicker with practice, but if a free Saturday is scarcer for you than the money you'd save, there's a fair case for letting a shop take the twenty or so minutes it takes them. It's also worth checking your warranty terms — you can usually service your own car, but keep receipts for the oil and filter and note the date and mileage, in case you ever need to show the work was done. If you want to build confidence with lower-risk tasks first, our guide to checking your car's fluids is a gentler place to start.

Gather everything before you start#

Having the right bits on hand makes the job smooth and stops you from crawling out from under the car halfway through. You'll want:

• The correct oil — check your owner's manual for the grade and quantity, and don't guess
• A new oil filter that fits your car
• A drain pan big enough to hold all the old oil
• A wrench for the drain plug and, usually, a filter wrench
• A funnel, disposable gloves, and plenty of rags
• Jack stands or ramps, and a jack if you're using stands
• A new drain plug washer if your car uses one

Buying the oil and filter as a matched set for your car, rather than grabbing whatever's on the shelf, avoids a lot of guesswork.

Lay everything out within reach before the car goes up. Sliding out from under a raised car to fetch a tool you forgot is exactly the kind of avoidable hassle that leads to rushed, careless work, and rushing is how people get hurt or leave a plug loose.

Lift the car safely#

This is the part to take seriously. Never work under a car that's held up by a jack alone. A jack is only for lifting; jacks can slip, tip, or fail, and people have been killed this way. Once the car is raised, lower it onto jack stands placed on firm, level ground, and give it a firm shake to be sure it's stable before any part of you goes underneath. Ramps are a good alternative and are often easier and safer for an oil change. Loose gravel, grass, and soft tarmac on a hot day all make bad footings for stands, which can sink or tip; a concrete driveway or garage floor is the place for this job.

Chock the wheels that stay on the ground, set the parking brake, and put the car in park or in gear. A car you can't lift safely is a car whose oil should be changed by a shop — the saving isn't worth the risk.

Let the engine cool before you start. Warm oil drains faster and more completely than cold, but hot oil and hot exhaust parts will burn you badly. A good middle ground is oil that's warm to the touch, not scalding — the engine off for a while after a short drive, rather than straight after a highway run.

Drain, swap the filter, and refill#

With the car safely up, place the drain pan under the drain plug and loosen it, then finish by hand, keeping your fingers clear as the oil rushes out. Let it drain fully. Next, position the pan under the oil filter and unscrew it; expect more oil to spill, since the filter holds some too.

Before fitting the new filter, take a moment to check that the old filter's rubber gasket came away with it. Occasionally the seal sticks to the engine while the rest of the filter unscrews, and if you fit a new filter over the old gasket, it will leak badly the moment you start up. A quick look now saves a messy surprise later. Then smear a little fresh oil on the new filter's rubber gasket so it seals cleanly, thread it on, and tighten it by hand — no wrench needed for most spin-on filters. Refit the drain plug with a fresh washer if required, and don't overtighten it; the threads are easy to strip. Lower the car, then add the new oil through a funnel a little at a time, checking the dipstick as you go so you don't overfill.

Finally, start the engine and let it idle for a moment while you look underneath for drips around the plug and filter. Switch off, wait a minute, and check the dipstick once more, topping up to the correct level. Watching your oil level in the weeks after is a good habit anyway, and part of a sensible car maintenance schedule.

Dispose of the old oil the right way#

Used oil is toxic and must never go down a drain, into the trash, or onto the ground. Pour it into a sealable container — the empty bottles your new oil came in work well — and take it, along with the old filter, to an auto parts store or recycling centre that accepts used oil. Many take it for free. In the meantime, keep the used oil somewhere safe and well out of reach of children and pets, since it's harmful if swallowed and a slick hazard if the container tips over.

If any part of this feels beyond your tools, your space, or your comfort, that's a perfectly good reason to let a qualified mechanic do it. An oil change is cheap at a shop, and paying for it beats getting hurt under a car or damaging an engine over a stripped plug. Do it yourself only when you can do it safely and properly.